Transportation - see problem below
Lamu seafront with Lamu Fort above.For the past two weeks I've been on the north coast of Kenya, a shore set with white beaches, mangroves, coral reefs and happy, welcoming people. So how could there be problems in paradise?
Well, to step back a moment, and examine this exercise called blogging.
I was persuaded a few years ago on another trip to blog, but my question has always been, who's interested in what I'm doing, and why would anyone want to read about it?
I'm doing it, so what would an aging, greying, ex teacher from BC have to say that could possibly be of interest? This feeling has been perpetuated recently in communication with the ND (nearest'ndearest) in BC who reports early snow and cold on the coast, so do people really want to hear about my early morning dhow trip yesterday from Lamu to Shela, a walk on the 7km crescent white beach concluded by a swim in the wonderfully warm waters of the Indian ocean, followed by a gentle downwind sail back to Lamu where the town is abuzz with the annual Swahili cultural festival - food, dancing, singing, sailing, donkey racing, talks and concerts filling the weekend.
If I'm waking up to snow and cold, hearing from the guy in paradise may, or may not, make me feel better? You see my dilemma. But there are other problems too ......
The perfect mango?
In Lamu I'm staying literally 30ft from the town market. A short stagger brings me to the fruit stalls early each day, but how to pick the perfect mango? Too ripe and they are too mushy and too sweet, but too early and they are hard, and tart beyond compare. The perfect mango is firm, yet foregiving to the touch, and judging this requires moments of careful handling, weighing, and contemplation; discussion and negotiation with the stall owner ensue. The perfect mango is both tart and sweet, if such is possible. Once sliced away from the pit, cubed against its skin and folded open, the yellow flesh becomes a sensual delight into which one dives face first, to emerge minutes later,hands, face and facial hair covered in delicious mango juice that requires a second face wash of the day.
Believe me its hard to get it just right, picking the perfect mango, and there's the issue of the strands of mango flesh that stick between the lower teeth...... so you see the problem, right?
Swahili carved doors - a feature of the Swahili coastAnd the problem is?
My first morning I wander out the waterfront in Lamu looking for some breakfast. Its just after 7 and not too many about yet. A grizzled fellow is enjoying a rollie on the seawall, and we exchange greetings. He's the owner, cook, waiter, of the Olympic, a modest hoteli right there offering the usual omelettes, fruits and juices. I become his first customer. At first I thought he might be Greek- his looks, the Olympic, but no, Asif is of Indian decent, not unusual here on the Kenyan coast.
What is unusual is that almost all his family are in BC. They left Kenya en masse in the early 70's for Vancouver, but after a couple of years he gave up on it and returned to Lamu. He loved the ocean, loved fishing. Now his family is established in Burnaby, Seattle, Calgary, and he's in Lamu. He lives with some regrets as he doesn't have the security and prosperity his brothers and sisters do, and maybe coming back to Lamu was a mistake.
I look out at his fishing dhows bobbing on the rising tide by the seawall, feel the warm breeze rising, hear the laughter from his family behind the curtain of the Olympic, and cant help but think that if I could choose waking up in Burnaby or Lamu on a morning in November, I know there'd be no problem.
Digo elders perform at Lamu Festival
Transportation - problem?
In Lamu there are no cars! I mean, how can you call yourself a town and have no cars, its the 21st century for christsakes. So with no cars here, no trucks, no buses, well it means you walk everywhere, walk ... remember walking! In sandals, or barefoot even. People stop in the street, greet each other, go to the bakery, the market, to the docks, to work, on foot.
There's no traffic jams, no road rage, no speed bumps, no traffic calming, no exhaust. They do have a transportation system, its donkey! Donkeys! the place is positively biblical!
These guys have a problem! Weird dude!
Kenya time - no problem
The program said 'Kasida from Mombasa' 20:00-22:00, 'Praful Kumar -Bollywood Music' 22:00-daybreak. So down to Mkungani Square in good time. The square in front of Lamu Fort is hardly crowded, in fact but for a few expectant mzungu tourists who cluster around seats under the jacaranda tree, the usual mix of full time square hangers-on and lingering youth, its pretty deserted. On stage, there is evidence of preparation, but its clear, nothing is imminent.
Not being one for waiting patiently, I head back to my room. I'll hear music strike up - I'm within easy earshot. Ipod on, I fall asleep easily in the warm evening breezes. At 22:00 I wake to "hallo, check, check" repeated over and over. At 23:00 I wake to music, but too comfortable to move, i listen from my bed! only to fall asleep again. Just before dawn I come to, the strains of Bollywood music in the air at 05:30. This part of the festival timing at least is accurate, they really are playing to daybreak. A few tunes later, mercifully it closes down, just in time for the roosters and the call to prayer. I wonder what the residual negative effects of listening to Bollywood music all night might be. Speaking in subtitles?
View from my bed across market building to Lamu Fort 
