Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Coping with Kenya

Coping with Kenya

Medium Kenyan Flag

we haven't had city water from the taps in a month(rain barrels are a blessing),
once one computer is fixed, another one goes down, the internet flickers on and off,
power comes and goes, and comes again,
the driving habits are deranged, and 'slaloming' is accepted to avoid potholes,
the poor are many, for whom each day is a struggle,
to 'eat' means taking your cut of whatever you can, from top to bottom of society,
the population has grown 50% in the past ten years,
unemployment/underemployment affects a similar percentage,
women are still an underclass, the 'big' man syndrome lives,
those who succeed are obligated to assist kin and friend alike, or their name suffers,
the forests are under immense pressure for farming from the growing population,
tribal rivalries and tensions are not far from the surface, the body politic strains as a result.

http://www.sandwatch.ca/images/Kenya/kenya%20Map.gif

however....

the spirit among the people is infectious, a smile and 'habari' make an immediate connection,
living in community by supporting family and friends is ingrained,
the countryside in western kenya is lush and productive,
Kenya has coastal reefs and idyllic beaches, interior rolling highlands, alpine areas in the tropics, its northern half is desert en route to Sudan and Ethiopia, huge lakes in Victoria and Turkana,
lions, elephants, giraffes, rhinos, hippos, cheetahs, warthogs, zebras, leopards, wildebeests, monkeys, cape buffalo, hornbills, ibises, flamingoes, civets, aardvarks, hyenas, mongooses, gazelles, impalas, all live here, ...... puff adders, pythons, cobras, black mambas too,
a new constitution in August created a new sense of pride, expectancy and optimism,
people smile and laugh, and take time with each other,
making it easier,
coping with Kenya.

Working for a living
look at the row of 'shops' - to the uninitiated western eye it looks uninviting, dingy, rough.
we're used to shops, big and bright, inviting, cemented and clean, but not here, not in this block;
but look more closely, and evidence of entrepreneurial vigour sprouts abundant...
basic groceries, hairdressing, internet, all live here, eking a living from minimum space
across the street, stalls offer basics like tomatoes, onions and eggs, chipatis and mandazis are there too, potatoes, dried fish, welding, furniture making, fresh milk+yoghurt....
all within 30metres of my front gate.
these are people are making the best of the hand dealt them, in challenging circumstances,
seeing their industry and invention, i marvel at it, and wonder how I'd cope as a Kenyan.



For the love of the game
I brought 6 mini soccer balls with me-what better way to connect with Kenyans than to drop a ball, kick it around, and then leave it behind. Not a new idea, thanks to my friend Dave Ravenhill at Reynolds for the suggestion.
So on my Sunday morning strolls, I plant a ball inside my ball cap, where else?, and off I go in search of a game. Nice religious habit of a Sunday morning, in a religious nation.
Here are some recent, serendipedous, and extremely pleasant results,
coping with kenya via the beautiful game.















Duncan (with ball at top) and friends



Winston and son




PS - the waters running tonight :)

Sunday, October 3, 2010

At the party

As a b'day present to self, I went off with another CHES agent to the Rondo Retreat in Kakamega Forest an hour east of town. Its a lovely set of cottages set in the tropical rain forest, a world away from the bustle of town. So up early this morning for a dawn ramble and these are some of the critters that I came across who helped celebrate entry to another year. Lucky me!
http://www.rondoretreat.com/

Black and white casqued hornbill - raucous birds who flock in the high canopy of the forest in the morning.
Olive baboons

Colobus monkey - saw a family group of 8 or so this morning

Speckled mousebird

Red Tailed Monkey

Blue Monkey

From the forest, an older and wiser man, HL